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Coping with a Blind Pet
The loss of vision is most unfortunate for any patient,
whether the patient is human or canine. "Buddy" should adjust to
blindness over time. "Buddy" will begin to rely more heavily on
his other senses such as hearing and smell to help him get around.
In fact, there also seems to be some sort of 'radar' that will help
Buddy navigate in his environment.
Blind pets learn to quickly negotiate their territory
with ease without bumping into objects. You should help "Buddy"
by keeping the environment as stable as possible. Furniture should
not be moved and the food and water bowls should remain in the same
position. You should try to educate any small children about "Buddy's"
blindness so that they will approach him without startling. You
and any guests or children should announce your presence so that
Buddy knows you are there.
"Buddy" can exercise normally but should always be
supervised, especially when in unfamiliar surroundings. A fenced
backyard or exercise area is perfectly acceptable.
With a little guidance from you, as a 'seeing eye
person', "Buddy" should live a perfectly happy life. "Buddy" is
not in pain and does not need to be put to sleep just because of
blindness. Dogs and cats don't seem to have the psychological problems
that humans have with blindness so you should not feel any guilt
about continuing your relationship with your best friend.
Blind dogs and cats cope well because they have:
1. Good senses of smell.
2. Good senses of hearing.
3. Good knowledge of their limited environments.
Below are some suggestions to help you and "Buddy"
make the transition
1. If you have other pets, try placing a bell on their
collar so that "Buddy" knows where they are. If you have multiple
pets - place different sounding bells on each pet. It is interesting
to note that other dogs in the family usually take on a role of
leader and lead their blind friend around.
2. Don't re-arrange your furniture if "Buddy" is mostly
indoors. If his spends most time outdoors, don't plan major landscape
projects.
3. Make sure "Buddy" does not have access to roads
and traffic. If "Buddy" is an outdoor dog and you have no fence,
check into the purchase of an 'invisible fence'.
4. If you have a spa/hot tub or pool, a cover or barrier
is necessary because "Buddy" could fall into the water and drown.
5. Feed "Buddy" and keep the feed and water dish
in exactly the same place every day. This area and the sleeping
area will then become a site for reference if your pet becomes disorientated.
6. Until "Buddy" learns to negotiate stairs, you will
need to place a barrier to prevent access to minimise the chance
of falling down. The same is true for stair landings. Most clients
remark that walking up and down stairs is the most difficult of
all things for their pet to 're-learn'. Be patient, "Buddy" is trying
his best. You can use treats to entice your pet up and down the
stairs by placing them just out of reach on the step above or below.
Using the word 'step' when there is an elevation change will teach
them to pay extra attention and learn about steps and curbs. Counting
stairs may help some pets, and even changing your voice a note higher
or lower when going up or down.
7. Buy some aromatic/essential oil or use citronella
and dab little spots at nose height on the corners of furniture,
backs of chairs and places he is more likely to bump into. Using
another scent also put a drop in the centre or edge of each step
so your pet can sniff the next stair. You can mark out boundaries
for example on the edge of verandas to help "Buddy" learn where
the edge is. Oil-based perfumes tend to be more expensive however
they are much more effective. They smell nice and without the alcohol
they use in less expensive lines and sprays they won't evaporate
so quickly. One drop from an eyedropper should be enough. Re-mark
the rooms every three to four weeks. "Buddy" should quickly learn
the scent of many pieces of furniture so marking many places again
may not be necessary.
8. Learn to verbalise everything. This will help "Buddy"
to still enjoy walks off leash. If you start to walk away and you
want them to come, say 'come', pat the side of your leg and continue
to do so to allow them to have a sound bearing on you. Whenever
you approach, call his name or stomp the floor so they don't get
surprised. Tell strangers to talk to "Buddy" as they approach and
allow he an extra chance to smell them.
9. Understand that "Buddy" will no longer be able
to communicate with other dogs easily and will be oblivious to posturing
and body language.
10. Take "Buddy" on two or three different walks regularly
to allow he to memorise the way and enable he to still enjoy walks
outside of the home environment.
Web sites of interest
www.blinddogs.com
www.pepedog.com
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